by Neon London0
Review: Dinner On The Mews At Hunter 486
You would be forgiven for walking down Great Cumberland Place in the leafy neighbourhood of Marylebone and thinking you had find yourself in a dining desert. The street is scattered with beautiful houses, hotels and oh so quaint little muses but restaurants are few. Good thing I was informed by someone in the know that The Arch London had a gem of a restaurant known as Hunter 486 hidden within its walls.
Walking into the Arch London is like being transported to another time period. You enter a building one would more associate with a grand town house rather than a hotel and you are welcomed by friendly, knowledgable staff who walk you past the Martini Library and into the restaurant. The space is open, modern and airy, yet hasn’t lost any of it’s intimacy. The restaurant has large windows looking out to a mews, a large bar perfect for drinks with a friend while you wait or even better for a date and to the other end you’ll find a spotless open kitchen with hanging brass pots and pans and a roaring wood fired oven which is used for a handful of dishes and on the weekends is used for what I hear is a great Sunday roast. My guest and I are seated at a large booth table that looks more fit for a VIP guest rather than me, but it’s the perfect space for keeping at eye on the crowd at the door and watching the action in the kitchen.
Upon being seated we are informed about the new spring menu that head chef Gary Durrant had recently launched with a strong emphasis on British ingredients that are in season. The menu is accompanied with a diverse wine list of which twenty seven wines you can order by the glass. We go for the Estandon Heritage Rose, which is a perfect match for the light appetisers and summer evening.
I started the meal off with the dressed Dorset crab, with avocado and pink grapefruit. I’m usually not a fan of having citrus accompanying my savoury items but the tartness of the grapefruit mixed with creamy avocado and incredibly fresh Dorset crab had me scraping the plate for any tiny remnants I could find, trust me when I say you want this on your table. My guest went for the marinated tuna with pickled baby vegetables, and the sour and saltiness of the vegetables worked well with the nicely seared tuna. Picking a main course was not easy and the waiter was probably sick of us by the third time I asked for another two minutes. Finally we came to our decision and my guest chose a fillet of stone bass with sesame green beans, carrots and lemon grass in a ginger broth. Sometimes with dishes like this, the Asian elements can overpower it and take away from the main ingredient but not here; the fish was perfect and buttery and the sauce and vegetables were light and delicate, they added the perfect crunch to the dish. I was about to go for the lemon sole fillets, when a behemoth of a burger went by and knew I had to try it. I was not disappointed with my selection. The burger came in a soft brioche bun perfect for soaking up the juices, onion marmalade and french fries. I have lived in New York for years and years and had burgers of all calibers but this one was punching high on the list. A perfect blend of meat, seasoned properly, cooked medium rare and topped with a tangy onion marmalade. This burger came with no cheese but when it’s this good you don’t need it. Take my advice and do not skip on this one.
The burger had definitely done its damage but the dessert menu was calling our names and we went for it. I opted for the homemade ice-cream and pick my all time favourite: salted caramel. I do not use these words lightly but I promise this was the best salted caramel ice cream I’ve ever had. If this was to go on sale in my local Sainsbury’s tomorrow I would buy the lot, incredible is all I have to say. My guest chose the raspberry and pistachio trifle which she enjoyed but it was heavy on the cream and if you have plans after your meal this might just sink you!
Hunter 486 was a restaurant I was happy to be informed about and definitely one I am now happy to tell others about. The space was comfortable and peaceful with great attention to detail and a staff to match. I feel that as I write this I am giving up a big secret that only I and a few others know about. Let me say this, if you are looking for 5 star cuisine on a Friday night where you can most likely grab a table and impress someone without breaking the bank; Hunter 486 hidden on the leafy streets of Great Cumberland Place is one for you.
The Arch London, 50 Great Cumberland Place, Marble Arch, London W1H 7FD
For reservations, please call: 020 7724 4700 or www.thearchlondon.com