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by Krista


neon’s Top 10 Dishes from The Dairy

Working up from mmmmmm-not-so-bothered to yummmmm-we-want-more!

10. Padron PeppersPadron Peppers, Cod Head, Smoked Cod Roe (£6)
The Spanish love stuffing fish into all sorts of vegetables so the combination worked but there was just not enough in the bowl to justify the price.

9. RadishesClarence Court Duck Egg Yolk, Radishes, Watercress (£7.50)
A clean, fresh and peppery dish which enjoyment will depend on how much as you enjoy eating cold egg yolk – some more than others.

8. MuttonHerdwick Mutton Loin, Broccoli, Anchovy, Capers (£10)
Smoky and salty with a couple of chunky pieces of loin. Enough for two people to taste plus a bit extra for the person who liked it the most.

7. Chicken SkinChicken Oyster, Crispy Skin, Wild Mushrooms, English Asparagus (£8.50)
You would find it difficult not to like the combination of the two best bits of a chicken both nicely seasoned and pumped up with mushroomy umami. Yum.

6. Bread and Butter – complimentary
Served warm in a sack which meant the sourdough retained enough heat to polish off the whipped smoky bone-marrow butter smeared on a serving “stone”.

5. CarrotsRooftop Carrots, Goat’s Cheese, Oat Granola, Buttermilk (£7.50)
This is a brilliant dish that makes the most of contrasts; crunchy, smooth, sweet and sour… you get the idea.

4. Venison Scotch Egg – we wolfed this down so quick we hardly noticed the garnish, or price.
Deep meaty flavour, a rich runny yolk and crispy crumb coating gave this dish all the elements of the perfect scotch egg.


Our Top Three Dishes

3. Mackerel“Nigel’s” Mackerel, Swiss Chard, Bonito Butter (£9)
The fish was perfectly cooked, the bonito butter delicious and the swiss chard tied and balanced the three components with flair.

2. CodSmoked Cornish Cod, Potato, Fresh Nori, Sorrel (£7.50)
This was our favourite savoury dish of the evening because it was a clever combination of a beautifully light, subtle and elegant dish delivered with lots of flavour.

1. DessertHibiscus Doughnuts, Shortbread Biscuits and Apple Jelly – complimentary
A trio of petit fours that cleansed and elevated the entire meal though their clever spiky flavour (doughnuts), smooth sweetness (sable) and tartness (jelly). The hibiscus sugar was especially brilliant.

All of the above, plus 2 cocktails, a bottle of Prosecco and 2 glasses of red was £62.50 per person and our favourite dish was the complimentary petit fours, a clear demonstration that everything The Dairy serve is of a high standard.

Service is efficient but you never feel rushed despite the format of the sharing plate menu and the procession of several dishes.

You would never leave here feeling ripped off and underwhelmed. The best thing about The Diary is that you feel real value at the end of the meal and it is this that makes you want to return.

15, The Pavement, Clapham Old Town, SW4 0HY
0207 622 4165 or book here.


£25 4 Course lunch Wednesday, Thursday and Friday

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About the Author

Krista is the editor of Neon London

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